Shoreline Bassin'

Bass fishing from the shore is much like fishing from a boat. The angler must assess the seasonal behavior of the bass, determine where they are most likely to be located, and then pick a lure and presentation that matches the conditions. Bass fishing books and magazines like the In-Fisherman and Bassmaster generally provide these guidelines.

Shoreline fishing creates a few obstacles that frustrate boat fishermen less often. The brush, reeds, pads, and other shoreline flora can hinder approaches, and make taking the optimum position difficult or impossible. The slope of the bottom away from the angler makes some presentations easier, and others more likely to snag. As a result, lure choices are often dictated by shoreline cover and bottom slopes.

As suggested by the other expert. Spinnerbaits and small plastic worms and grubs are often choice selection. But, any standard bass lure can be used under the proper circumstances.

Seasonal and local weather effects pond bass and shoreline bass of many larger waters. Day-night temperature fluctuations make shallow water and small waters vary in temperature more than big waters. Shoreline fishermen may have a harder time reaching the deepwater fish that are less influenced by temperature changes and therefore less likely to be inactive and not biting. A few warm days are likely to rapidly warm shallower areas and increase feeding activity, while a few cold days and nights can shut everything down.

In cold seasons, shoreline anglers usually find positions where they can reach fairly deep water (over 10 feet deep) produce better than positions adjacent to wide, shallow flats. Fish worms or jigs very slowly in the deepest available water, near the dam on ponds, and along the outside bends of deeper creek channels in water big enough to have them.

In spring, just like the boat fisherman, seek spawning areas. Bass will nest within a few feet of the shoreline, usually near some sort of cover, like a stickup or tree stump. They can be seen and sight-fished with a good set of Polaroid glasses. I think a plastic lizard, tube bait, or minnow lure, like a Bomber Long A, worked in or over visually sighted fish works well. You don’t have to see them, just fish spots you think they are likely to nest. In the prespawn, look for spawning flats, but try to find an adjacent area that has offshore cover 3-8 feet deep where large bass may pause and hold en route to the nesting area. After the spawn the same spots will hold some fish as they move away.

Ponds are usually small enough so that the bass there can move about daily to all of the types of habitat present. In the post-spawn, summer, and fall, pond bass are likely to hold in 3-10 feet of water while inactive or neutral, holding in, under, or near the thicker cover objects. They often move into 1-6 feet of water while actively feeding. You can tell if bass are neutral or active by how aggressively the chase and hit your lures.

If you shore fish larger waters, the flats fairly far from deeper water may be less frequently used in the late spring, summer, and fall. Try to located places with moderate rather than shallow bottom slopes to increase your odds of casting to a few fish.

Pick your lures according to what you want to achieve and where you are forced to fish. You may need a weedless lure like a Silver Minnow Spoon or Bass Rat if the shoreline is clogged with underwater and/or floating vegetation. If the vegetation is under the surface, use a spinner bait, and shallow-running crank bait like a Bandit 100 series, or a floating Rat-L-Trap. Buzzers and top waters like a Pop-R are good baits when fish are shallow and the surface is open for accurate casting.

Along steeper drop offs, try diving crank baits like a Norman Deep N, work a single-spin spinnerbaits slow and deep, or go with plastics or jig and pigs.

Everything you’ve ever read about bassing techniques, except for vertical spoon jigging, is available to shoreline anglers at one time or another. But, the shoreline configuration and your ability to move to other shoreline spots dictates what you can try. Nothing will work if the bass aren’t positioned within your casting range or you can’t put the lure near the bass’ depth.

Finally, remember that shoreline bass are wary. They can both see and hear/feel you coming. Sneak up. Make your first casts to any spot from which you intend to fish from well behind the shoreline right up to the bank. Fish every spot you approach BEFORE you walk up and stand in the open.

Once at the shore, fish visible targets but don’t be in a hurry. Take time to assure your lures pass as near as possible without snagging to the places you think bass my be. Fan cast the entire area, unless you have a specific pattern working (such as finding bass only at the base of willow trees or button bushes) and want to rush from each piece of specific cover to the next.

If one lure seems to be working, stick with it. But, if your trusty favorite lure gets no hits, try different speeds, depths, and lure types. If speed and depth control don’t make a difference, experiment with color changes. Note the water color and be sure your lure selections are likely visible to the bass.

If the shoreline permits, consider wading, or getting a tube float to increase the area you can cover during a trip.

Still no hits. Your not in the right place today. Try somewhere else, or come back tomorrow.